Flying into Bangkok at night was like gliding over a living circuit board. The city lights stretched forever—so wide and dense it felt like we’d never cross it, even at jet speed. Josée and I were wiped. We’d left Ottawa nearly 30 hours earlier, dragging ourselves through layovers and time zones. Luckily, we had a hotel booked at the airport—Josée’s brilliant idea. We crashed hard. Then, it was back into the air, heading north to Chiang Mai to link up with our friends, Phil and Zippy.
Chiang Mai
Our first day was mellow—settling in, catching our breath—but we’re not ones to sit still. By evening, we hit the streets for food. Cheap, tasty, and fun to eat. Phil and I even crunched down a few scorpions—because why not?
Later that night, we wandered the markets. Josée got a polite but stern talking-to from a local cop for walking around with an open beer. No fine, just a warning. Then, as we strolled past textiles, food stalls, and souvenir stands, a voice suddenly boomed across the square. Everyone stopped. Froze. Not a god, not a demon—but a recording calling for silence and respect. It was time to pay homage to the King. The whole street scene paused, hundreds of us standing still in the night air.
The next day, Phil roped me into a mountain hike with some of his crew. No rest for the wicked! Tough climb, but worth it—summit views never disappoint. Meanwhile, Josée and Zippy pampered themselves at the spa.
We also visited an ethical elephant sanctuary, where Josée and I got to care for a gentle giant for the afternoon. We fed her bananas and I waded into some questionably clean water to help give her a bath. Humbling, hilarious, and a little stinky.
There were workouts (Phil insisted. I was all in.) And Warcraft 3 sessions at a gaming café (I insisted. Phil was all in.), long motorbike rides, and a trip up the mountain to visit a golden temple. I was a bit hesitant riding with Josée at first—Chiang Mai isn’t as hectic as Bali, where I earned my scooter stripes—but still wild enough to keep me cautious. Eventually, I got back in the groove, and we cruised together with Phil leading the way.
A food tour took us to seven different spots—each one more delicious than the last. A little history, a lot of flavour.
Koh Kood
Back in frozen Ottawa in the spring the year before our trip, Josée and I had decided we wanted both mountains and beach in our Thailand adventure. That mix is what inspired the name of our travel blog: Reefs and Ridges.
After Chiang Mai, we flew back to Bangkok, then took a bus south and hopped on a ferry bound for the island of Koh Kood. Beach vibes hit instantly. Our first day was all slow strolls, warm sand, and painfully spicy (but heavenly) Thai food as we watched fire dancers twirl flames against the night sky. The next day? Thai massage. Painful, but afterward we felt like gods.
Phil and Zippy joined us a few days later. We rented scooters and zipped around the island—me finally confident enough to have Josée riding pillion. Every meal was a feast, all ordered by Zippy (thank the Thai food gods). We dined on fresh seafood every night.
One dark evening, riding back from dinner, a long green snake slithered across the road in front of us. I had to swerve to avoid it. Last thing we needed was a venomous bite in the middle of the jungle.
One of the most touching experiences was visiting Sabai Dog Koh Kood, a grassroots sanctuary run by a Lithuanian couple. With over 700 stray dogs on the island, they’re out there every day rescuing the weakest and most injured, nursing them back to health, feeding them, sterilizing them. Visitors can help by bringing dog food, bandages, medicine—or just love. It was heartbreaking and heartwarming all at once. They’re doing sacred work with shoestring resources.
The rest of our time was pure island bliss: long beach days, warm water, lazy sunrises and fiery sunsets.
It was my first time in Thailand. Josée had been before—each trip different in its own way. We made it just in time, too, before Phil and Zippy moved on to their next chapter. It was a gift to see how Phil lives, a kind of role reversal from when he visited me in Bali years ago.
Thanks for coming along on the ride.
Kevin & Josée